2022 Kumeu River, Estate Chardonnay, Kumeu, New Zealand

The 2022 Chardonnay Estate is calm, its shoulders are down and it's almost succulent in its personality as it makes its debut in your mouth. The acidity is gentle, particularly when compared with the nervosity of 2021. There's a fine textural character that could well be tannin that keeps this giving and leaves you licking your lips. Flavours of nectarine, clove and vanilla-like oak notes make for a rather festive finish (20% new oak). The nectarine-infused length persists making this one that'll slip down easily over the next 3-5 years at the very least.Drink 2023 - 2028Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous.com.com (September 2023)

13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.The 2022 Estate Chardonnay is nutty and svelte, with white peach, pastry, apricot kernel, brine and even a hint of malt biscuit through the finish. The wine has breadth and girth to it; it's not at all compact, but it's tight in texture. So, all things being equal, it's an exciting Chardonnay. This is from six different sites in the Kumeu area, with wine ageing on lees in 20% new oak (just about all François Frères) for approximately 11 months. Everything goes 100% malolactic fermentation, wild primary ferment, and malolactic fermentation is a mixture of inoculation and wild. From 2024, they will not be inoculating malolactic fermentation, as "the wild yeasts seem to be the most reliable," explains Michael Brajkovich. Lovely acid.Drink 2023 - 2033Erin Larkin, Wine Advocate (December 2023)

Bright, tangy, high-energy wine with grapefruit, green apple, oyster shell and lemon blossom flavours supported by taut acidity that gives the wine a nod in the direction of Chablis.Bob Campbell, The Real Review (September 2023)

This is Kumeu River's calling card. Made from a selection of six different sites of which they own four. Whole-bunch pressed and barrel-fermented (20% new). Vines planted from 1989 to 2005. 9,000 cases made.Some real richness on the nose. Then a green streak. Very fine texture! With Puligny savour and lift. Creamy yet fresh. Bullseye for the style. Good light grip on the end. Convincing. GV. 13%.Drink 2023 - 2028jancis_robinson_mw MW, JancisRobinson.com (September 2023)