2022 Gevrey-Chambertin, Aux Etelois, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Brothers Nicolas and David Rossignol have run this domaine, created by the marriage of their parents, since 1990. The range offers a fine overview of Gevrey-Chambertin terroir, capped by their three, very contrasting, Grands Crus. The Chambertin stands supreme, but a preference between Latricières and La Chapelle varies from year to year. In the vineyard The brothers began their move towards biodynamics in ’97 in their Chapelle-Chambertin vineyard; the whole domaine was converted by 2004. They value that status deeply; the work required in ’18 to combat the pervasive mildew was a true labour of love, with endless applications – by hand – of horsetail teas. In the winery Over the years, their style has defined itself: these are now relatively delicate wines, lightly extracted so never deep in colour, but built around subtle textures. Aromatics are further enhanced using about 50% whole bunches, depending on the year.