2021 Château Cheval Blanc, St Emilion, Bordeaux

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Cabernet Franc 52%, Merlot 43%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%

Pierre-Olivier Clouet describes this as a classic Cheval Blanc, although not from a classic vintage. Yields are down one-third on 2020. Key to the vintage was the huge amount of rain in May, which meant there was no drought stress later in summer. The road to maturity was thus uninterrupted (especially for the younger vines), and during the cooler summer, extended. The time between veraison (the change of colour in the grapes) and harvest is usually 40 days; in ’21 it was 60-65 days. All this builds complexity. The tannins were just ripe – “al dente” according to Pierre-Olivier. Cabernet Franc replanted 10 years ago performed very well, and accounts for one-third of that variety’s contribution, which is at a record 52% this year. This is a cerebral, strict wine that will require patience, with its apothecary’s herbal note withdrawn but swirling. Hard to read now, this will be fabulous. It’s not as opulent as recent vintages, but the Cheval Blanc team adore it. Drink 2028-2050.

Our score: 18.5/20

Berry Bros. & Rudd (Apr 2022)