2020 Chambolle-Musigny, Les Amoureuses, 1er Cru, Domaine Bertheau, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Domaine Bertheau is managed by François Bertheau, who took over from his father Pierre in 2003. I feel a special affection for this domaine as the carpenter who worked on our house in Burgundy (Daniel Sirandré, now retired – he really liked doing staircases) used to work part-time for the Bertheaus, and he presented us with a Bonnes Mares 1985 and a bottle of Chambolle Amoureuses 1972 when we dropped in to pay the bill. As well as those two vineyards François Bertheau, who took over from his father Pierre in 2003, produces Les Charmes and a blended Chambolle premier cru made from Les Groseilles, Gruenchers, Noirots and Baudes. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.