2021 Château Berliquet, St Emilion, Bordeaux

The team that runs both Berliquet and adjacent Canon are at pains to explain (and maintain) the difference between the sibling properties. Berliquet’s vineyard has three separate levels and soils, from top to bottom: limestone; clay; and then sand. The clay gives Berliquet bigger shoulders, allowing the use of 10% amphorae to give them a silkier edge. Jean-Basile Roland compared ’21 to a hard-fought rugby match, with a winning try scored at the last minute. This is a cool, elegant wine, sculpted more than flowing. It has a slightly aloof, aristocratic, perfumed allure. Drink 2027-2040.

Our score: 17/20

Berry Bros. & Rudd (Apr 2022)