2020 Château Troplong Mondot, St Emilion, Bordeaux

Merlot 85%, Cabernet Sauvignon 13%, Cabernet Franc 2%

Aymeric de Gironde will want to avoid the hubris of saying it, so we will: this is the best Troplong for two decades. In his words, it’s “a year to forget, a vintage to keep”. There’s an admirable purpose throughout this wine, from the first notes of myrtle, juniper and marinated fruits; through the woven and graceful tannins; and to the deft and bright final impression. Troplong has a powerful terroir. No attempt is made to hide it, but nor is it exaggerated into a heavyweight expression, as was often the case up to 2017.

Drink 2027-2050