2020 Chablis, Montée de Tonnerre, 1er Cru, Louis Michel & Fils, Burgundy

The 2020 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is taut and concentrated, unwinding in the glass with aromas of freshly baked bread, clear honey, confit citrus, orchard fruit and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's a serious wine that will reward bottle age.Guillaume Michel presides over this important 22-hectare estate, which has long been the reference for tank-fermented and matured Chablis, a style that the Michel family did much to popularize in the 1980s. Intense and tensile wines are the calling card here, pure and unadorned in style and consistently high in quality. Indeed, I sometimes think that Louis Michel is the most underrated of Chablis's larger domaines. The 2020 vintage is a real success here and likely the domaine's best since 2017. Some cuvées will see a slightly longer than usual élevage due to glass shortages, but I suspect that will only enhance their quality.Drink 2025 - 2045William Kelley, Wine Advocate (July 2022)

An elegant and wafting nose freely offers up aromas of white flowers, mineral reduction, lemon zest, quinine and ocean breeze wisps. There is fine precision and verve to the tension-filled medium-weight flavours that exude both minerality and salinity on the bitter lemon-suffused finale that is youthfully austere and quite dry. This very classy effort is potentially outstanding.Drink from 2028 onwardsallen_meadows, burghound_com.com (October 2022)

Pale lemon yellow. Power, once again, is evident from the outset. But strict enough and with admirable tension at the back, the marine minerals are doing their job. A wealth of flavour here and with a real grip. This keeps building in the aftertaste. Excellent! Drink from 2026 - 2034Jasper Morris MW, InsideBurgundy.com (June 2022)