2017 Beaune-Grèves, Les Troix Journaux, 1er Cru, Château de Meursault, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

The Paulée de Meursault is held on the Monday after the Hospices de Beaune sale every year, with the cuvérie being cleared of vats and vintage paraphernalia in order to lay tables for lunch for 600 people, the guests having been greeted at the door and then wended their way through the extensive subterranean cellars of the Chateau’s outbuildings.   The Chateau’s holdings extend to over 60ha, including 8ha of the Clos du Chateau, former park land which was planted up in 1975. There is a substantial cuvée of village Meursault raised in new wood, a 1er cru which combines Charmes and Perrières and just over half a hectare of Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet.   There are significant volumes of red Burgundy produced here as well, notably a Beaune 1er Cru from ten different plots and separate bottlings of Beaune Grèves and Cent Vignes. In addition the Château enjoys a holding of 3.60ha of Pommard Clos des Epenots, not to be confused with the Comte Armand’s Clos des Epeneaux, and 2.6ha of Volnay Clos des Chênes. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.