2017 Riesling, Spätlese, Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, Dönnhoff, Nahe, Germany

Cask sample. 2016 produced an Auslese from this site, but here the winemaker (Cornelius?) demonstrates that he is not interested in consistency of style, but definition of the vintage. So 2017 was not a vintage of opulence for the Hermannshöhle, but exhilarating freshness, filigree fruit and almost razor-sharp acidity. A wonderful spritz of zesty orange on the finish reaches the part of the palate other Spätlesen can’t get to.Drink 2018-2031JancisRobinson.com (Apr 2018)

Lily perfume on the nose of this Hermannshöhle reminds me both of the corresponding 2016 and of this year’s Kirschheck. That is accompanied by ripe, fresh and high-toned, distillate-like notes of pear and quince. The glossy palate is lusciously fruited, billowingly perfumed, as well as seductively glossy and creamy in texture. Piquancy of pear pip and hints of anise add counterpoint, while fresh grapefruit and white peach contribute welcomed bright juiciness en route to a ravishingly-sustained, impeccably-balanced finish. The covering term “mineral” will for now have to serve the strikingly transparent finish, which becomes more intriguing the longer the wine takes on air.Drink 2019-2038David Schildknecht, Vinous.com (Apr 2019)