2017 Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru, A.-F. Gros, Burgundy

Chardonnay is often seen as the king of white wine grapes and one of the most widely planted in the world It is suited to a wide variety of soils, though it excels in soils with a high limestone content as found in Champagne, Chablis, and the Côte D`Or. Burgundy is Chardonnay's spiritual home and the best White Burgundies are dry, rich, honeyed wines with marvellous poise, elegance and balance. They are unquestionably the finest dry white wines in the world. Chardonnay plays a crucial role in the Champagne blend, providing structure and finesse, and is the sole grape in Blanc de Blancs.

Two specific vineyards, En Charlemagne and Le Charlemagne, make up half of this appellation, while white grapes grown in seven others may also be sold as Corton-Charlemagne. As a result there can be a wide divergence in style between a south-facing location such as Pougets, which needs picking at the start of the harvest, and the western slopes in Pernand-Vergelesses which might be picked weeks later.

Anne-Françoise Gros, originally of Vosne-Romanée, is married to François Parent of Pommard, where they live, though their wines have been made in substantial premises in Beaune since 1998. Their joint living as wine-makers is ably assisted by their children Caroline (pictured) and Mathieu.  The domaine consists of Anne-Françoise’s share of Domaine Jean Gros, additional wines in and around Vosne-Romanée which she has bought or leased, and her husband’s share of Domaine Parent. He also offers wines under his own label, adorned with a black truffle. Her labels sport the outline of a female head, each one different according to the interpretation of the style of the appellation by Anne-Françoise and the artist.   There has been a sorting table since 2008, after which the grapes are destemmed but not crushed. The grapes are given a short cool maceration, then fermented with more pumping over than punching down, with the juice being concentrated by a similar machine to that used by Michel and Bernard Gros, if necessary. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.