2017 Charmes-Chambertin, Aux Charmes, Grand Cru, Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs, Burgundy

There was 70 percent whole-bunch this year, with the main trunk of the stem having been cut away to keep only the ripest wood. This wears its 100 percent new oak very lightly, offering a hedonistic peony and violet perfume on the nose, with a deft and delicate touch in the mouth. A wine which comes to you. Drink 2023 2033.

Thibault continues to keep himself busy, having bought more vineyards in Moulinà-Vent. In the Côte d’Or he waited until 13th September to pick, feeling that the skins were not ripe until that point. He describes the vintage as transparent, where each vineyard’s identity is clearly visible, and one where those with large yields will not be able to hide. In the Beaujolais, hail was again a significant factor, reducing the average yield for those wines he made to an eye-watering 8hl/ha. The damage was so bad that it cost more to pick the grapes than he will make on the wines, but he felt a duty to harvest and vinify the fruit. With careful use of the vibrating sorting table, he was able to carefully select only the clean fruit and has made exceptional wines.