2017 Montrachet, Marquis de Laguiche, Grand Cru, Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy

Through their contract with Marquis de Laguiche, Drouhin manages an astonishing 2.1 hectares of Montrachet (out of eight hectares), which means they have a mind-boggling 28 barrels this year. As usual at this level, words fail: the dial is on 11 for richness, intensity and voluptuous freshness. Drink 2030-2050.

An extensive tasting with Jérôme, who has been at Drouhin 14 years, gave a very useful insight into the style and developments here. In particular, the reds are moving towards a riper, more succulent style, driven by a high level of grape sorting, including an optical sorter, and the ambition to use 25 to 30 percent wholebunch, or more if the vat needs filling. The wines go to barrel turbid and are not racked until the end of their time in bottle. They are also harvesting later. The Clos des Mouches was not harvested until 20th September, long after their neighbours.