2016 Nuits-St Georges, Aux Thorey, 1er Cru, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, Burgundy

From vines planted in 1963, 25 percent was lost to frost. This is one of the last Premiers Crus heading south towards Nuits-St Georges. Less well-known than Murgers, this was once considered one of the top sites in Nuits. Fine and expressive, this grows in the glass with an open, juicy bouquet. It has density, but wears it well; it’s relatively accessible. Drink 2022-2028.
Adam Bruntlett, Wine Buyer

Sylvain Cathiard’s grandfather, a foundling from Savoie, came to work in Vosne-Romanée, subsequently buying a few parcels of vineyards for himself. His son André Cathiard began to bottle some of the crop. In due course Sylvain began work with his father but then separated to start his own small domaine, until, on his father’s retirement in 1995, Sylvain could take back the family vineyards on a renting agreement. He has now passed the domaine on to his son Sébastien and a spacious new cellar has been constructed. There is a sense of frustration about Sébastien Cathiard this year. Of course, the loss of so much fruit sets the tone, but he also had to take emergency action to control the aggressive mildew, losing his organic status in the process. Who can blame him? Thus he states a preference for 2015, a significantly easier vintage and one for the long-term, but there are still some very notable wines here. The vintage began on 28th September and was over in three days, as the small berries on the frosted vines had caught up after the welcome September rains. He describes the year as gourmand, balanced and pure.