2016 Riesling, Scharzhof, Egon Müller, Mosel, Germany

Penetrating aromas and bright juiciness of apple and lemon are reinforced in their invigorating effect by the pungency and bite of raw ginger as well as a nettle-like prickle. An impression of wet stone also runs from the nose through the polished, delicate but concentrated midpalate. A luscious infusion of fresh apricot and a saliva-liberating lacing of mineral salts add appeal to an animating finish and render the next sip irresistible. I can’t recall having tasted a more impressive Scharzhof bottling, a fact that might well be directly related to the major crop losses suffered this year in Saarburg (and to a lesser extent Wiltingen), whence this cuvée is sourced. But as Veronika Lintner points out, some of this wine’s delightful sense of levity can be laid at the door of lower must weights, offering yet another example of how, inexplicably, crop loss this year to peronospora seldom resulted in prematurely elevated Oechsle. I wouldn’t hesitate to cellar some of this.Drink 2017-2026David Schildknecht, Vinous.com (Mar 2018)