2016 St Aubin, Les Murgers des Dents de Chien, 1er Cru, Domaine Hubert Lamy, Burgundy

Of Olivier’s vineyards, this is the closest to PulignyMontrachet, in this case the Premier Cru Champ Gain. Olivier started picking on 16th September, quite a bit earlier than his neighbours, but his work in the vineyards means he gets phenolic ripeness earlier. The resulting wine is another sleeper; there’s a steely tension to the wine that should be allowed to resolve itself, and the aromatics will blossom. Drink 2021-2027. Adam Bruntlett, Burgundy Buyer

There have been Lamys growing vines in St Aubin since 1640 – today the domaine is run by Olivier Lamy in succession to his father Hubert. Olivier ceased supplying négociants in 1997, grubbing up and selling off peripheral vines, keeping only the best and oldest sites. He has been experimenting with different planting densities in a quest to capture an even greater expression of terroir. Every single one of Olivier Lamy’s vineyards in St Aubin was completely frosted; only Santenay escaped. In a strange way, this was a benefit because, when the vines began to re-flower, they did so all at the same time and there was an homogeneity of growth and maturity. Furthermore, without two differently maturing sets of grapes to contend with, the crop made up the two-week delay imposed by the frost and Olivier was able to start harvesting in Santenay on 15th September, finishing his Bourgogne Blanc from his highest vineyards in St Aubin 10 days later. Olivier suggests the style is like a lighter version of 2014. Overall his production is down about one third.