2011 Riesling, Spätlese, Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, Dönnhoff, Nahe, Germany

A riveting, high-toned aromatic diversity announces the Donnhoff 2011 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese with themes that inform an at once creamy yet subtly tannic and vibrant palate: quince, pear, lychee, nut oils, fusel oils, distilled herbal essences, brown spices, and smoky black tea. This behaves as if a bit of Traminer had been blended-in. The rich nuttiness and glaze of honey as well as sheer succulence of fruit make for a more opulent performance than that of Brucke, but to say that this is less energetic or dynamic would be misleading. Its incessant interplay of elements is utterly kaleidoscopic just more calmly harmonious than the Spatlese from next door. Like that sibling, this deserves to be followed for a good quarter-century.David Schildknecht - 28/02/2013