2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge, La Crau, Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, Rhône

Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Clairette are blended here with a little extra Mourvèdre in deference to the quality of the vintage. The mouthfeel has something of the intensity of 2005, perhaps because of the additional Mourvèdre, but the overall impression is closer to the outstanding 2007: rounded, fine and long. Herbs and licorice, bay and spice, all vie for attention in this classic Vieux Télégraphe with enormous ageing potential.

Daniel Brunier is very happy with the quality of his 2009s; the conspiracy of nature was entirely benevolent with a cold winter, a cleansing Mistral and gentle rain all following the director’s script, followed by a hot August and good harvest conditions. He counsels patience, however, given the small thick-skinned berries. Their concomitant low yields and the resulting natural concentration make these wines for the long term. 2009 he sees as riper, richer and more impressive of colour than 2007. Praise indeed! The great vintages of 1990 and 1998 offer the closest comparison.