2009 Clos-Vougeot, Grand Cru, Domaine d'Eugénie, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Domaine d'Eugénie is the reincarnation of the famed Domaine Engel. After the tragic early death of Philippe Engel in May 2005, his family decided to sell the domaine. The highest bidder was François Pinault, owner of Château Latour in Bordeaux, whose right-hand man Frédéric Engerer had long had a passion for burgundy. The 2005 harvest had already been sold off in bulk, but the new team, including young vigneron Michel Mallard from Ladoix, made the 2006, 2007 and 2008 in the Lupé Cholet headquarters in Nuits-St-Georges. From 2009 they have moved into the now refurbished Clos Frantin buildings in Vosne itself. Yields are significantly lower than in Philippe’s day and the vineyards have been meticulously looked after, including a substantial programme of replacing missing individual vines, which will be picked separately and declassified into the village Vosne in their youth.   The principal decision is whether or not to keep any stems. None were retained in 2006, but an experiment with one of the two fermentation tanks of Clos de Vougeot the following year was positive, the blend of half with and half without stems showing textural qualities and a sense of energy over and above either individual version. The experiment has been continued in 2008 and extended to the Grands Echezeaux.   Otherwise, the grapes are vinified in fairly classical manner, with a preference for punching down rather than pumping over, then matured in barrel for a minimum of 15 months (village Vosne), or rather longer for the grands crus which receive around 80% of new wood. The first vintage released by the Domaine was in 2006. The highly impressive 2007 vintage is a truly representative vintage for Domaine Eugenie, showing each of the vineyards in its true guise. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.