2008 Gevrey-Chambertin, Les Fontenys, 1er Cru, Domaine Joseph Roty, Burgundy

Pinot Noir is probably the most frustrating, and at times infuriating, wine grape in the world. However when it is successful, it can produce some of the most sublime wines known to man. This thin-skinned grape which grows in small, tight bunches performs well on well-drained, deepish limestone based subsoils as are found on Burgundy's Côte d'Or. Pinot Noir is more susceptible than other varieties to over cropping - concentration and varietal character disappear rapidly if yields are excessive and yields as little as 25hl/ha are the norm for some climats of the Côte d`Or.

Joseph Roty has one of the largest cult followings of any small grower and has produced some of the most exquisite wines of Burgundy. His family have been producing wine since the time of Louis XIV, a staggering eleven generations since 1710. It is now run by Joseph’s son Philippe and noted for the exceptional quality of its Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes, which may date back to the end of the 19th century. Not much is made and even less of Mazis- and Griotte-Chambertin. It is easier to find his 1er Cru Fonteny (0.45ha) or various village Gevrey-Chambertin and Marsannay cuvées. The wines are full-coloured and exuberantly fruity. The only time I tasted with Joseph himself, the wines were illustrated by constant illusions to different types of female.   The domaine has a total of 17 acres and produces virtually near perfect Mazis-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin in the top vintages. Both wines are aged in 100% new oak for 15-16 months, bottled unfined and unfiltered. Jasper Morris MW, Burgundy Wine Director and author of the award-winning Inside Burgundy comprehensive handbook.