1988 Highland Park, Orkney, Single Malt Scotch Whisky (43.8%)

When visiting the Orcadian archipelago, the points of interest are manifold – from the Old Man of Hoy via the wondrous neolithic remains at Skara Brae to the storied waters of Scapa Flow. An equal to these, some might say, is the fascinating Highland Park distillery and its several warehouses full of very sleepy casks.

Deep in a particularly dark corner of one of their oldest warehouses, I was shown these two sister casks of 1988 single malt. The bungs proved stubborn, but the lustrous liquid rewarded the effort; barrels of this age, from this address, appear only infrequently.

Time passes slowly on Orkney, no more so than for the spirit maturing thereupon. The relatively gentle diurnal and seasonal temperature fluctuations cushioned by the tempering effects of the Gulf Stream allow for contemplative ageing rather than any undue rushing to a sprint finish. These restful, if somewhat wind-swept, decades imbue the people, place and whiskies with a powerful presence and a warm heart.

Rob Whitehead, Spirits Buyer, Berry Bros. & Rudd (September 2023)

The nose is fresh and fragrant, with only a hint of this liquid’s age. At first, there are delicate aromas of coconut, camphor wood and spiced golden apples. This follows on to a bowl full of vanilla ice-cream topped with stewed apricot, banana and milk chocolate.

The palate is a different story; here, the whisky begins to display its maturity. Citrus zest gives a lovely lift and the more savoury notes come to the fore: cinnamon, teak and grilled seaweed. The finish is elegant, with a saline smokiness. This is a real Orcadian gem.

George Turner, Assistant Shop Manager, Berry Bros. & Rudd (September 2023)