2020 Château Léoville Barton, St Julien, Bordeaux

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Cabernet Sauvignon 85.5%, Merlot 14.5%

Lilian Barton Sartorius, ninth-generation vintner at Ch. Léoville-Barton, states ruefully that they didn’t make much wine in 2020. In common with many Médoc properties, yields were down, reduced to 34 hl/ha. However, the wine that was made delivers immense colour and concentration. It’s extravagantly perfumed, with aromas of pencil shavings, sweet cherry, and blackcurrant cordial. There is a burly feel to the tannins, which have great intensity. The mid-palate has a lovely brightness, which runs into subtle spicy notes of clove and star anise. The finish is long. All in all, a very persuasive Barton.

Drink 2028-2050.