1973 Verdelho, Pereira d'Oliveira, Madeira, Portugal

Often the middle children, and in the case of Madeira we are talking about Boal and Verdelho rather than Malvasia and Sercial…..tend to be overlooked or at least under-estimated. Yet in the case of mature and serious Madeira, it’s often these two grapes which really excel. Herewith a case in point, the astonishing 1973 Verdelho. Richly coloured, the wine’s aromatic power seduces from afar…but with notes of verbena, eucalypt and freshly shaved ginger, the seduction is subtle and measured. Coco Chanel would approve. The palate is equally subtle, with smoky notes and hints of iodine and apricot, and backdrop of cloves and white chocolate underwriting inherent complexity.
Simon Field MW - Wine Buyer